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This page provides a literature overview on articles about interesting topics of cosmetics and dermatology which have been published in specialist journals. The articles deal with skin analysis, active agents as well as details on the composition and use of cosmetic and dermatics. Also medical issues like problem skin, skin barrier and cornification disorders are covered. Please select on the left. The publications are available in full text and can be downloaded as pdf-files.
You are welcome to integrate dermaviduals® publications on your own website. For details please refer to the service section on our website KOKO - the company.
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Vitamins in cosmetics
special actives | | While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics. | | more... | | Nanoparticles - sizing up skin care
special actives | | I recently read an interesting article, passed to me by my Australian colleagues. It's a long way from Germany to Australia but the issues raised in the article "I'm as Mad as Hell....." by Danné, published in the Nov/Dec 2010 issue of Professional Beauty, resonated with me so strongly I felt... | | more... | | Cellulite from A to Z
problem skin | | Exceptions prove the rule: the vast majority of women will develop cellulite some time in their life. The treatment of the annoying indentations has grown into a profitable branch of business within cosmetics. There are lots of promises but reality frequently is different. The following overview... | | more... | | Gentle products for soothing massages
products | | Wellness and cosmetic treatments - both are unimaginable without massages! The customer longs for relaxation and expects the promised results. Professional competence is required here - and the appropriate media in form of creams, oils and gels. | | more... | | Layer per layer - the structure of the skin
skin diagnosis | | The skin is a complicated and highly efficient organ which protects our body and adds to its attractiveness. It is also barrier and intermediate station for outgoing and incoming substances. In general, we are not aware of what it can actually achieve. If the functions of the skin are impaired,... | | more... | | Silicon - the global player in cosmetics
ingredients | | As a cosmetic agent, the element silicon plays a wallflower role: only at the first glance, though. As a matter of fact, the semi-metal is insignificant as an active agent. However, organic silicon additives and inorganic silicates are widely used in cosmetic products. | | more... | | From soap to high-tech emulsifiers
ingredients | | There are two basic needs that are as old as mankind - hygiene and skin care. Both of them deal with the transport of lipid substances. In order to work most effectively while being gentle on the skin, modern cosmetic products make use of powerful tensides and emulsifiers. Recent emulsifying systems... | | more... | | Sensitive skin - identifying symptoms and causes
skin diagnosis | | Besides the fact that simple causes often have major consequences for the skin, cosmetic practices are also confronted with complex issues when it comes to sensitive skin. Identifying the complex problem is a major prerequisite for a causal and successful cosmetic treatment. | | more... | | Acids and bases from A to Z
ingredients | | Acids somehow have a spectacular image in skin care. They either have caustic effects in the true sense of the word or they are the magic cure for a beautiful skin per se. Bases, as their counterparts, only live a wallflower existence as neutralizers. Details and backgrounds are covered in the... | | more... | | Corneotherapeutic skin care for the rosacea skin
problem skin | | Rosacea predominantly affects fair-skinned people and develops in adult age. Characteristic symptoms are erythema, changes of the superficial blood vessels and connective tissue as well as enlarged sebum follicles. Frequently there are also oedema and pustules to observe. In addition, there is a... | | more... | | Fragrance sample? Aldehydes and ketones
ingredients | | Formaldehyde and acetone are immediately associated with nail hardeners and nail enamel remover. In chemical terms, these substances belong to the substance class of aldehydes and ketones - which are well-known molecules in cosmetic products like e.g. preservatives, perfumes or essential oils. | | more... | | Sun protection: on the efficiency of UV filters
skin protection | | Whenever the skin is exposed to bright sunlight, the natural protective mechanisms of the skin will no longer be sufficient. Sun protection creams are inevitable in order to protect the skin against the negative effects of UV radiation. How do the UV filters in sun protection creams work and how... | | more... | | The ABC of fatty acids
special actives | | We come into contact with fatty acids day in, day out as they are elements of our daily nutrition and skin care. Already the syllable „fat" reminds us of calories and even more disagreeable is the idea of something like "acids". Fatty acids have more influence on our health than we generally assume,... | | more... | | Skin care for the adolescent skin
problem skin | | During adolescence teenagers increasingly pay attention to their outer appearance and frequently take a look in the mirror. Blemished skin often becomes a problem. Acne, perspiration etc. wreck their nerves. What can be done when the skin goes haywire, particularly at this time when everyone is... | | more... | | Nanoparticles in cosmetic products - good or bad?
special actives | | New developments create anxieties and raise questions. First and foremost because it lacks information and experience. Frequently hearsay is the only source of information available. Nanoparticles are not the same kind of quantum leap as the first steam locomotives were, though. The following... | | more... | | Vegetable oils
ingredients | | Vegetable oils are the oldest known skin care products. Yet they are important as ever. Find out more about the manifold and interesting features of this substance group in the following. | | more... | | Stressed skin - itching & Co. - causes and remedies
problem skin | | Rather unpleasant phenomenon: unbearable itching combined with erythema. Whether it is an insect bite or nettle rash after the contact with certain plants, the urge to scratch is specifically unpleasant at night times, and in public it even implies poor hygienic conditions and parasites.... | | more... | | Lasting effect? Tendencies in anti-aging treatments
anti-aging | | Wrinkles - now customers can well do without these and that is the reason why they willingly buy the promoted anti-aging skin care products on the market. Aim of these products however should be the effective prevention of the skin aging process. According to Dr. Hans Lautenschläger empty words or... | | more... | | Skin reactions - cosmetics and their effects
problem skin | | The ingredients of skin care products may cause inflammatory processes in the skin under certain conditions. On the other hand there are also cosmetic components which may effectively impede inflammatory processes. In the following survey the contrary ingredients are exemplarily compared with each... | | more... | | Hyaluronic acid - a legendary agent
special actives | | Hyaluronic acid is a legendary agent in the true sense of the word and it is almost impossible to imagine basic skin care and the treatment of wrinkles and dry eye syndrome without it. However where there is light there is also shadow and more and more treatment procedures with hyaluronic acid... | | more... | | Eye care products - ingredients and effects
products | | Our eyes are like business cards for our internal frame of mind. Sadness, happiness, curiosity and almost every personal feeling can be read in our eyes and hence is communicated to our fellow human beings. Reasons enough to pay special care to our eyes and the eye area. This will keep them in... | | more... | | Skin elasticity - what can cosmetics achieve?
problem skin | | To keep the skin smooth and free of wrinkles for as long as possible is the main objective of preventive skin care. Besides hydration and smoothing, skin elasticity is the other essential factor where all depends on. Based on selected examples the following article explains potential influences on... | | more... | | Dermopharmacy - decorative cosmetics for problem skin
problem skin | | Decorative cosmetics still leads a shadowy existence in many pharmacies. Wrongfully - as it is desperately needed specifically in the problem skin area in order to reduce the psychological strain of the individuals concerned. The following article describes preparations which form a valuable... | | more... | | Self-tanning products - a beautiful sun-tan without sun
products | | While fair skin is the ideal of beauty in many countries of the world, the average central-European population rather prefers a tanned complexion. It stands for the idea of a healthy and active life style. As UV radiation however is related to the well-known consequences like premature skin aging... | | more... | | Medical Wellness - a powerful combination
anti-aging | | Cosmetics - medicine - wellness: an increasing number of intersections and overlappings can be noticed between these disciplines. Cosmetics is spreading its activities into the boundaries of medicine. The field of "medical wellness" fills the gap between medicine and wellness and often has its roots... | | more... | | Vegetable oils and extracts - essential components
ingredients | | The use of oils and extracts for basic skin care purposes already has a long tradition and still retains its relevance today. Frequently singular substances with defined effect can successfully be isolated, very often however this specific effect is closely related to the extract or respectively the... | | more... | | Couperosis - a field for active agent concentrates
problem skin | | Couperosis - a complicated cosmetic topic: quite a few questions regarding its origin and treatment are still waiting for an answer. Just like other problem skins also couperosis demands for a thoroughly balanced skin care. Particularly in the field of supporting prevention skin care plays a... | | more... | | Liposomes
special actives | | INTRODUCTION: Publications about and patents on liposomes, along with their different chemical components, preparation, and use in skincare products have often been reviewed [1-4]. The reviews do not need any additional comments. Of interest are general questions, such as why liposomes should be... | | more... | | A closer look on natural agents: facts and future aspects
ingredients | | Natural agents have always been a topical issue and also the object of vigorous advertising campaigns. The general public certainly associates the terms natural and biological with purity, harmlessness and good tolerance. However, not every product labeled with the term natural also contains pure... | | more... | | All-purpose talcum free powder bases with urea
products | | All-purpose powder bases for use in decorative cosmetics, skin care and dermatology are described. Besides covering compounds, such as mineral pigments and physiologically compatible amides, urea plays a major role, particularly in use of powder bases on problem skin. | | more... | | Photodamaged skin: sun-bathing and after sun care
problem skin | | Overexposure to UV radiation causes serious long-term skin damage, premature skin aging and may even trigger skin cancer. Even if the infrared light of the sun seems harmless though, it may build up extremely high temperatures in the outermost skin layers and as a consequence also lead to premature... | | more... | | Under close scrutiny - phytohormones
anti-aging | | Hormones control our bodily functions throughout our entire life. They also have effects on our skin. As hormones have a systemic influence though, they are not allowed in cosmetic products. The research for substances with hormone-like effects proved successful in plants. Detailed information on... | | more... | | Enzymes - the silent brownies
special actives | | Enzymes are substances of very special kind. They are the brownies in the metabolism of live organisms as they compose or degrade the substances involved. They take care of almost every single chemical transformation, silently, ecologically and without leaving any waste products. They can also be... | | more... | | Irritated skin - skin in a state of turmoil
problem skin | | Irritation - what exactly does it mean? In general the term is explained as an overreaction to an insignificant or even trivial incident. Now, what applies for the area of mental balance may also be extended to the skin. Skin irritations, their causes as well as their treatment will be discussed in... | | more... | | Actinic keratoses - an endemic disease?
problem skin | | Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million... | | more... | | Mixed skin - a skin with two different faces
problem skin | | In the daily practice frequently questions come up regarding the appropriate cosmetic treatment. Mixed skin: What does it actually mean? How can we receive adequate measuring results and what is the best care - all these questions are answered in the following. | | more... | | Corneotherapy and anti-aging
anti-aging | | Corneotherapy was coined in the nineties by Professor A.M. Kligman. In his studies he proved that a skin therapy with moisturizers already could achieve clinical effects. Experience has shown now that corneotherapy can also protect the skin against premature aging. | | more... | | Vitamin K for a healthy and beautiful skin
special actives | | Vitamin K is an essential nutrient for the human body. Vitamin K belongs to the fat-soluble vitamins and naturally occurs in two different types, i.e. vitamin K1 and vitamin K2. Vitamin K1 is mainly assimilated through vegetable food whereas vitamin K2 is formed by intestinal bacteria as e.g.... | | more... | | Olibanum - embedded in nanoparticles
special actives | | A substantial increase of inflammatory skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis and actinic keratoses but also skin cancer has been observed worldwide. The serious barrier and cornification disorders involved can now be treated with frankincense, the lately discovered cosmetic agent. | | more... | | Self mixed
base creams | | KOKO now offers foundations which are individually adapted to customers' needs. The modular system is easy to handle and does not require any specific practical knowledge. | | more... | | Dermatological cosmetics - linking cosmetics and medicine
products | | The term "dermatological cosmetics" already alludes to the combination of dermatology and skin care. Dermatological cosmetics, what does it actually mean? What is the difference between dermatological and conventional cosmetics? Based on a present-day example the concepts of dermatological skin and... | | more... | | Preservatives
ingredients | | Preservatives are added to cosmetics in order to prevent product deterioration and combined with it to avoid any possible health risks involved for the consumer. In the following you will be informed about products which particularly require these additives, about the basics of preservatives and... | | more... | | History and current aspects of corneotherapy1)
problem skin | | The term corneotherapy was coined by A. Kligman. A persistent corneotherapeutic treatment of the disturbed homeostasis as the characteristic feature of atopic dermatitis with appropriate skin care substances may achieve substantial clinical effects. In summary, it can be said that corneotherapy aims... | | more... | | Cornification disorders - the adequate skin care
problem skin | | Keratoses of the skin are common public diseases. As a result, also cosmeticians are frequently faced with questions regarding the care of the affected skin. In the following, you will find interesting information on active agents, cream bases as well as cleansing and skin care products for these... | | more... | | Shelf life and preservation
ingredients | | Along with the latest amendment of the German Cosmetic Decree (KVO) a new regulation becomes effective. Products with a shelf life of more than 30 months or more have to be labeled with the symbol of an open jar together with the date indicating how long the product may be safely used after opening.... | | more... | | Skin cleansing - selecting the appropriate product
products | | Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products. They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and applications. The following overview offers assistance in selecting the... | | more... | | Oleogels - what non-aqueous products can accomplish
products | | Today's skin care products mainly are emulsion-based which means that they contain water and an oil respectively lipid phase. In addition there are still products with only an oil phase. Oils but also oleogels belong to this group. They are primarily recommended for problem skins and therefore used... | | more... | | Concentrated agents: sera and ampoules
products | | Quick results, problem solutions, intensive care... these are the keywords connected with sera, ampoules and active agent concentrates to be applied either directly or in form of masks, packs or other special treatments in the beauty institutes. | | more... | | Whitening - lightening the skin tone
products | | Pigmentation marks, freckles and reddened skin are frequently felt as a nuisance. As only very few individuals however are endowed with an even skin tone, so called whitening products become increasingly popular. | | more... | | Emulsifiers enable mixtures
ingredients | | Emulsifiers are indispensable wherever lipids, oils and waxes are mixed with hydrophilic media with the objective of obtaining a stable mixture over a certain period of time. They are, among others components of food and cleaning agents, lubricants and cosmetics. | | more... | | Specific active agents and bases in corneotherapy
special actives | | The term corneotherapy was coined in the late nineties1) by Professor Albert M. Kligman. The basic idea of corneotherapy is that topically applied substances as e.g. moisturizers and lipids influence the biochemistry and physics in the horny layer as well as subsequent processes in deeper skin... | | more... | | Preservatives - germs et al. under control
ingredients | | Microbiological stability is a must for cosmetic products. Consequently preservatives are among the essential additives in cosmetics. They protect the products against microorganisms during the manufacturing process as well as during storage and application and they also are the deciding factor for... | | more... | | Additives in cosmetic products
ingredients | | Besides the lipid substances for skin caring purposes and the lipid and water soluble active agents the INCI declaration of a cosmetic product generally lists a variety of further ingredients. They may be categorized with the term "additives" and have various functions. | | more... | | Active agents: liposomes, nanoparticles & co
special actives | | Life can only exist in an atmosphere which provides protection against outside influences. Thus, monocellular living organisms are protected by cell membranes whereas multicellular organisms are provided with an exterior skin whose outermost layer, the epidermis also has a membrane-like structure... | | more... | | Acne - prevention and care
problem skin | | Acne is one of the most frequent skin problems beauty institutes are confronted with. Acne customers and above all the younger generation among them often go through a personal ordeal and generally have high expectations of a cosmetic treatment. | | more... | | Therapy and wellness in the bathtub
products | | Bathing and balneological products already have a long tradition and still enjoy great popularity. Moreover: even in today's shower age, the wide range and the application of balneological products is still on the rise. | | more... | | Regeneration - the potentials of cosmetic products
anti-aging | | In general usage, the term regeneration already is more or less identified with a magic formula against skin aging. Accordingly, there is a large variety of different prescriptions in form of products and treatments on the market. Quite evidently, the aging process of the skin cannot be stopped;... | | more... | | INCI - Declaration
ingredients | | The ingredients of cosmetic products are declared in accordance with INCI standards. Knowing how to read the INCI provides information on the ingredients and gives important clues whether the particular customer can tolerate certain products or whether the cosmetics contain substances which should... | | more... | | Psoriasis - the appropriate care
problem skin | | Psoriasis is a partially hereditary skin condition with intermittent attacks which may be triggered by additional environmental or nutritional factors or by mental stress. An appropriate skin care may relieve its symptoms. | | more... | | Energizers - masks and packs
products | | Masks or packs are essential elements of a large variety of cosmetic treatments. Unfortunately, it frequently falls into oblivion that these products in fact are some sort of quick-change artists. By adding different active agent concentrates and base creams, they are able to adapt to the specific... | | more... | | Emulsions - micro-emulsions - nano-emulsions
ingredients | | Cosmetic products have a multitude of technical terms and it is difficult to keep track of it. On the other hand just a basic overview enables to infer to their practical properties. Taking a look at the microcosm of emulsions is worth the effort. | | more... | | Product variety in the beauty institute
beauty institutes | | Offering a wide range of different products today has become the recipe for success of the beauty institute. Not only when establishing new beauty institutes but also in general it is recommended to carefully select the products for treatment and sale. | | more... | | Progress in occupational skin protection
skin protection | | The number of occupational dermatoses is increasing although the workplace safety regarding the materials and substances used has constantly been improved. Thus, skin protection at the workplace and an effective skin care become the focal point of interest. | | more... | | Instruments for skin analysis
skin diagnosis | | An accurate analysis of the skin type establishes customer confidence, is the basis for a specific skin treatment and promotes the sale of skin care products. Special measuring instruments can optimize the analysis | | more... | | Emulsifiers - looking for alternatives
ingredients | | Emulsifiers stabilize emulsions. Yet, evidence that emulsifiers may cause skin irritations is mounting. While looking for alternatives it was found out that stable creams for a variety of different applications can be produced on the basis of skin-related substances. | | more... | | Regeneration of the skin barrier
anti-aging | | The objective of regenerating the skin is just as old as cosmetic itself. The decorative cosmetic shows how we would like to look after the regeneration. The caring cosmetic with the active agents at its disposal tries to support the regeneration to revitalize, soothe and protect the neglected,... | | more... | | Cosmetic dermatology - dermatological cosmetic
beauty institutes | | The combination of cosmetic and dermatology offers a variety of opportunities/benefits for clients, patients and institutes/consulting rooms. The cosmetic dermatology or the dermatological cosmetic complements the fields of orthodox medicine and traditional cosmetic and extends their activity field. | | more... | | Protect your skin too
skin protection | | Besides all the efforts of caring for the skin of the clients, the skin protection of the cosmeticians should not be neglected. Day in, day out, the cosmetician gets into contact with the products she uses for the treatments. High-quality products are useful which also protect the skin of the... | | more... | | Skin protection for the hands of strong men
skin protection | | The acceptance of skin protection and skin care especially designed for activities in humid conditions (e.g. metal industry, construction industry, hairdressers) and workplaces where oils are used (e.g. oil industry, automotive industry, mechanical engineering) among the individuals affected is... | | more... | | Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part II
special actives | | In Part I, some theoretical background on the structure of liposomes and their probable mechanisms of action on and in the skin were reviewed. Part II will discuss in more detail the utilization of liposomes in dermatological and cosmetic formulations. Appropriate uses are suggested, and some... | | more... | | Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part I
special actives | | Liposomes or liposomal aggregation may have played a role in the formation of the first cell membrane on Earth. Immediately after the discovery of liposomes by Bangham, there was intense research in the pharmaceutical industry concerning their parenteral application, but without a decisive... | | more... | | |
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